Sunny trails through history.

If you could fly over Mt. Umunhum, you could be in this park within a few minutes. It’s located in the New Almaden area between Almaden and Hicks roads.

Almaden Quicksilver’s predominantly south-facing slopes, few trees, and wide road trails over relatively easy grades make this county park a good choice for a hike or ride on a sunny winter day. Although I’m neither a bike rider nor horseman, this park seems ideally suited for riding. Of the 33 miles of trails, 25 are open to horses, 10 to bicycles.

The three main park entrances are open to bicyclists and equestrians. The newest entrance (Hicks/Wood Road entry) offers easy trailer unloading with plenty of space and no backing required. Several points of interest along the trails have tie-up rails and bike racks. The park also offers picnic tables at several locations throughout the park, a much-appreciated feature that is all too rare in state parks and open space areas.

The park is somewhat less desirable for hikers. The main multi-use trails are wide, rocky, and long. The south-facing slopes have little shade. Although not a problem in the winter, some of the uphill walks could be brutal on a hot July day. Walking from the Hacienda entry to the northwest end of the park is 6.5 miles one way. Although you can leave a second car at the McAbee Road park entrance, it has only on-street parking.

The Ohlone Indians used the red ore of mercury known as cinnabar for face painting even though many were sickened by mercury poisoning. In 1845, the Indians showed Andres Castillero the source of red ore, but the war between Mexico and the United States blocked his development of the area. The Barron, Forbes Company took over the property and set up the Hacienda de Beneficio, (reduction works) for the New Almaden Mines, named after the Almaden Mines of Spain. Thus began the history of the first and richest mine in California. By 1854, thirteen furnaces were in continuous operation. Workers built a settlement which became Spanishtown. Down below, the mine manager built a home, Casa Grande, which is now the Quicksilver Museum.

A twelve-year battle resulted in the forced sale by Barron, Forbes Company of the 8,580 acres for $1.75 million to the Quicksilver Mining Company in 1864. The new company built a company store, schoolhouse, and a tramway system. By the end of the Civil War, there were 700 buildings and 1800 people on the hill. Cornish miners built a new settlement—Englishtown. The town included a school, boarding house, community center, and a church. Although the mines produced millions of dollars worth of quicksilver, mine operations at Mine Hill closed in 1912.

In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps occupied what had been Englishtown. They built fire roads and lookout towers. You can see a CCC monument on Mine Hill.

Many small operators mined and processed mercury. A 100-ton rotary furnace was built below Spanishtown. By the 1970s, lower mercury prices and increased awareness of mercury dangers forced closure.

Santa Clara County acquired some of the property in 1973, more in 1975, and still more since 1976.

What’s left to see? Not much. You can see the remains of a reduction plant, a powder house, a small railroad trestle, the CCC memorial, a few abandoned structures, and some mine openings and tunnels. But if you know the history, your imagination can see hundreds of miners and their families investing their lives in mining and processing mercury. And you can wonder about the temporary nature of work, money, and life itself.

I started at the museum. In addition to seeing some historical artifacts, I got some good advice from a park ranger. He suggested that I begin my hike at the new Hicks/Wood Road entrance. My guide books didn’t cover this entrance because the trail from Hicks is relatively new. Although this trail appears a bit longer, it isn’t as steep as the Hacienda entry near the museum. I also enjoyed the drive around the southeast side of the park, especially along the Almaden Reservoir. The hike along the Wood Road trail offered easy walking with good views of Mt. Umunhum, Loma Prieta, and Sierra Azul Open Space Preserve.

A 1.3 mile walk took me to the first historical site—the remains of a giant processing plant. I then walked up a short but steep hill to the Castillero Trail, the beginning of a loop around the major historical sites. A left turn and 6/10 of a mile took me to Bull Run, a view site complete with picnic bench and some great views of Sierra Azul. After a lunch of sausage, almonds, and a Pink Lady apple, I took a sharp right on Mine Hill Trail. I passed a short trail to San Cristobal Mine, missing an opportunity to photograph the mine entrance, but continued on to the April Trail Loop. The loop took me by a restored powder house and an unrestored railroad trestle. I continued on Mine Hill to the CCC camp and the English Camp. I completed the loop and returned on Wood Road to the car. The total trip was about six miles.

With a total of 33 miles of trail running over 3,997 acres, I barely scratched the surface of this park. Next time, I’d like to park at the McAbee Road entrance and visit the Senador mines, then follow the Guadalupe Trail above Guadalupe Reservoir, and finally complete the loop on the New Almaden trail. (If you have walked any of these trails or have other favorite walks in Almaden Quicksilver, let me know.)

To reach the museum and main Hacienda entrance, take Almaden Expressway southeast, then turn right on Almaden Road. To reach the Hicks/Wood roads entrance, you can continue on Almaden Road, then turn left on Hicks past the Almaden Reservoir. Or you can get to this same entrance from the northwest via Camden Avenue to Hicks past the Guadalupe Reservoir. The McAbee entrance on McAbee Road is further along off Camden.